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Hotshots are accustomed to being the first responders to large blazes

Hotshots are accustomed to being the first responders to large blazes

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

SANTA FE NATIONAL FOREST – Standing in front of a two-foot-high pile of piñon and ponderosa, James Champ reaches forward and unleashes a wall of orange.

Within 10 seconds, the pile is popping and the flames are licking a dozen feet into the air. The stack of logs and branches reaches 600 degrees, then 800, and sucks air like an industrial fan.Champ, a wildland firefighter, has started a prescribed burn in the far northern corner of Santa Fe National Forest.

As a member of the Santa Fe Interagency Hotshot Crew, Champ works for the U.S. Forest Service to fight fires.

But burning brush and trees is also part of his job, especially in a year like this, when underbrush and weeds are thick from a good growing season last year. By lighting a fire now, he is eliminating fuel from a future conflagration.

And where some might see the flames as a dangerous enemy, Champ sees beauty.

“It’s really a fun thing to manipulate,” he said. “It’s really an art form.”

Before 7 a.m. on a recent day, Champ drives a mint-green Forest Service crew carrier north of Espanola on U.S. 84/285. His destination is a patch of forest in a remote corner of Rio Arriba County.

The top-heavy machine resembles a locker room on wheels. Inside, the firefighters — guys in their 20s and 30s, some wearing Oakley sunglasses and listening to iPods — sit like athletes going to a game.

Tucked in their seats and surrounded by enough gear to keep them going for weeks, the Santa Fe crew members are ready for a day of what they do best: line work.

To battle wildland fires in places that often have no water, hotshots work in row, averaging 20 at a time, digging a two-foot-wide trench ahead of fire’s advance. It’s a way to box in the flames and eliminate the fuel source, Champ says.

The Santa Fe team is one of 20 hotshot crews in New Mexico and Arizona. They are often the first responders in big fires far off the beaten path, and they are often seen as the elite among firefighters.

A four-year veteran of the crew, Champ, 31, said the physical work is not the hardest part about the job, for which hotshots can earn $25,000 to $30,000 in a six-month season.

“It’s mentally tough more than anything,” he said. “It’s 16-hour days for 14 days sometimes. You’re tired.”

Those days often involve sleeping in tents or on the ground, being away from families and the familiar feel of sheets and showers.

The work takes them to remote places like today’s destination, in a woody but dry corner of Rio Arriba County, where PowerBars replace Starbucks runs, sandwiches stand in for restaurant food and cell phone reception is out of the question.

Champ’s “office” is often nothing but forest, thick and scratchy in some parts but thinner in the areas the hotshots have already cleared.

Today, the crew will stand in the mud from a recent snow and burn piles of wood and brush.

But on another day, Champ and other firefighters could find themselves driving or flying out of state to work. The crew members are assigned nationally and pitch in wherever they’re assigned, regardless of which federal agency manages the land.

Members of the Santa Fe group have been all over, from Minnesota to Mexico.

“We’re like a city fire department, but we cover the United States,” said crew superintendent Rich Tingle.

As the truck rolls up into the forest on N.M. 96, the firefighters hop out, dressed in fire-resistant yellow and green clothing, hard hats and 30-to 40-pound packs.

Everyone has rolls of white tape for marking exit routes from a fire. They carry hot-pink paper to signal to helicopters that might hover. Everyone has six quarts of drinking water.

On a cool spring morning, they break into pairs and descend into the woods to light piles.

As they tend each blaze, which will take several hours to burn out, they talk about what they like – and don’t like – about fighting fires for a living.

“You give up your summer,” said Dave Simpson, a Pennsylvania native who joined the crew in 2003. “When you’re in town, you see people going to a movie and you remember what the public does.”

Friends might be going on a bike ride, but the hotshots can’t, Simpson said.

“You’d do that, but you’d have to go in the winter.”

Tingle views the work from a different angle.

“It’s nice out here,” he said, taking in the morning light on a stand of magnificent ponderosa pines and a yellow field below.

“You don’t have the red lights or traffic or people.”

But in the same breath, Tingle said, he misses those people – or at least a relationship. That’s a common refrain from the men on the crew.

“I can’t even have a dog,” Champ says. “I’m never home.”

Like Tingle, Champ lists the good things as quickly as the down sides to spending most of his time away from his own home, and protecting those of strangers.

“It’s not bad. You just adjust your lifestyle. It ceases to be a job. It’s a living.”

Published April 20, 2006.

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In ’37 House, pretty Ortiz y Pino de Kleven refused to sit

In ’37 House, pretty Ortiz y Pino de Kleven refused to sit

By Kate Nash
Tribune Columnist

SANTA FE – She was born before New Mexico was a state.

Elected majority whip before any other woman in the country.

And among the first women to run a ranch by herself.

Now 96, Concha Ortiz y Pino de Kleven can barely get the words out to describe those days.

Her voice is less than a whisper, an echo from decades past.

But the memories of serving in the earliest days of the Legislature are there, although they come in waves.

“I think that the attitude was that women sit in the corner and be pretty,” Ortiz y Pino de Kleven said of the years after her election to the state House in 1937.

“I said, ‘I’m not pretty. I’m not going to sit in the corner.’ “

She is pretty. But sit she didn’t. And still won’t.

If you lean in close, she’ll tell you she fought for bilingual education, for women’s rights. That not all the men were nice back then. That women today are too worried about styles. That she thinks her nose is too big.

“I thought that women should get elected,” she said. “I said to them, `We women come first.’ “

The bilingual Ortiz y Pino de Kleven, who has been honored probably a hundred times for her community service, her teaching and her work on behalf of the state, visited the Capitol last week. She was hugged and kissed and thanked by everyone, everywhere she went.

She travels inch by inch and with a blue walker. Yellowed oxygen tubes feed her air. But her mind is as sharp as ever.

Ortiz y Pino de Kleven was the third woman elected to the Legislature and served until 1941. At the time, only 532,000 people lived in New Mexico. John E. Miles was governor. Some 40 percent of homes had running water. It was a year before Los Alamos would become the site of the Manhattan Project.

In the 1950s, she commandeered the huge cattle and sheep ranch called Agua Verde in San Miguel County. She later went on to be a dean at St. Joseph’s College in Albuquerque.

She’s also the star of “!Concha! Concha Ortiz Y Pino, Matriarch of a 300-Year-Old New Mexico Legacy,” a biography written by author Kathryn M. Cordova.

It’s a cliche to say, but in her checked black-and-white wool outfit, with her hair pinned in a bun with clips that could be 40 years old, Ortiz y Pino de Kleven is a living legend.

Even her jewelry – giant pearl clip-on earrings and necklace – emanate the fashion, the flavor of another time.

That’s part of what makes her a role model for modern-day legislators.

Senate Majority Whip Mary Jane Garcia, a Democrat from Dona Ana, first met Ortiz y Pino de Kleven at church. It was so many years ago, she can’t remember when.

But Garcia says she does remember that she was so awe-struck by all the things Ortiz y Pino de Kleven had done that she was a bit intimidated to approach her.

“She has been a real role model for so many of us,” Garcia said.

And not just for the 34 women who serve now in the 112-member Legislature.

“She was an exception for her time,” said her second cousin, Sen. Jerry Ortiz y Pino, an Albuquerque Democrat.

“She thought she was just as good as any man.”

As she talks from her seat in the Senate lounge, Sen. Pete Campos comes in and kneels down in front of Concha.

“What’s your name?” she asks in Spanish. He answers.

“He looks like an old-timer,” she says, taking Campos’ baby face between her hands.

“Gracias,” Campos, a Las Vegas Democrat, says laughing.

“You’re doing so good,” he tells her, twice.

“I have a new boyfriend,” she says of Campos.

She smiles but can barely get the words out.

Still, the memories come.

“It was such a pleasure. It was such a pleasure,” she said of those days.

“People were so friendly,” she whispers. “People wanted to be good.

“I’m so proud to be a New Mexican,” says the woman who for many is the ultimate symbol of everything our state is.

After a 15-minute interview, Ortiz y Pino de Kleven is too tired to speak much more.

So she’s taken home for the day. She lives just down the street.

She’ll be back.

Published Jan. 30, 2006.

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Mexican Consul Solana is a link between two nations

Mexican Consul Solana is a link between two nations

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

Growing up on the edge of one of the planet’s biggest cities, Juan Manuel Solana lived with a foot in two worlds: His family had an expansive garden in the mountains above Mexico City, while the giant municipality offered all its charms below.

He figured he was one of the luckiest kids around, able to live in the nearly empty countryside that’s since been developed.

“I had the best of both worlds, of having the largest garden in the world for me,” he said.

As the Mexican consul in Albuquerque, Solana still lives in two worlds – two countries that are inextricably linked.

Solana, 47, alternately works as a mediator, negotiator and cultural ambassador between a pair of nations that despite their proximity can seem galaxies apart.

In the past year, he’s helped the state Taxation and Revenue Department get access to a Mexican government database to check the veracity of documents used by Mexicans to get New Mexico driver’s licenses.

He helped Bernalillo County sheriff’s deputies bring accused murderer Michael Astorga back to the United States from Juarez.

And he helped the families of Mexican immigrants killed in a car wreck near Santa Fe earlier this year get the bodies of their loved ones back.

“He really exemplifies what a consul needs to do for their community,” said Pablo Martinez, the state director of the League of United Latin American Citizens.

“He has opened up his office to the community and really has had an open door,” Martinez said.

Solana took the post in 2001, with the approval of then-president Vicente Fox.

With the recent election of Felipe Calderon, Solana could be replaced.

But Solana, with salt-and-pepper hair and an almost grandfatherly smile, doesn’t worry about that. The Christmas season is a crazy time for the consulate, which helps thousands of Mexican and U.S. citizens each year at its office on Fourth Street just north of Downtown.

For Solana, who once worked for big-name companies in Mexico like Pemex, the national petroleum corporation, recalling his accomplishments over the years comes easily and brings smiles to his otherwise serious face.

The memories also come without a hint of bragging, without letting on that he’s arguably the most important advocate for immigrants in Albuquerque.

He helped Mexicans in jail get an education before being deported. Helped bring numerous Mexican cultural events and exhibitions to the state. Helped workers who weren’t being treated fairly. Helped Gov. Bill Richardson arrange meetings with two Mexican presidents in Mexico City.

His office has 13 employees, with divisions dedicated to a range of services from immigrant protection to health care and education.

The immigrant protection division is among his favorites, he said, although he’s quick to offers a positive assessment of each.

“It’s the department that gives you the greatest satisfaction, where you really can do something for so many,” he said.

When asked to choose a best moment in his nearly six years on duty, he can’t. There are too many, he says.

Solana, a former professor who is single, collects Mexican coins for fun, including the 2 peso gold coin he pulls out of a plastic case in his pocket on a recent day.

The price of gold is going up, he says. Good thing for his collection, he laughs.

Solana has filled his sunny, south-facing office with Mexican art – pottery from the village of Mata Ortiz, shelves of sculptures, prints and paintings.

The collection is a testament to the culture he loves and promotes, as well as a symbol of the immigrants he works to help.

Immigrants’ presence in the United States is something Congress needs to address, he said.

“We are not solving the problem, and that problem is a lot of people are willing to pay a lot of money to come here and work. There is a lot of need in Mexico,” he said.

“I hope the Americans and the American Congress find the way.”

While Solana is an ambassador of sorts between two counties, he also has to work with the variety of state and federal government agencies in the United States.

He has contacts at OSHA, the Department of Labor, the Governor’s Office, you name it.

Those who have worked with him say he doesn’t like to take credit for his work, much as he deserves it.

“I will be forever indebted to Juan for what he did for us after Astorga was captured in Juarez,” said Bernalillo County Sheriff Darren White. “I think people should know he was very much involved, and I consider him a friend and always will.”

Solana said he was just one of a group of people who worked the case, in which sheriff’s deputies were able to get Astorga out of Mexico after he was arrested in the border town across from El Paso. Deputies had been searching for Astorga for 12 days.

White said he works with Solana often, including when Mexican nationals are crime victims.

“Victims of crime sometimes are reluctant to come forward, and feel more comfortable going through the consulate,” White said.

At the Taxation and Revenue Department, Solana helped form the first partnership in the nation in which a U.S. state agency could access information from a Mexican government database.

The department can use the database to verify documents presented by immigrants who have New Mexico driver’s licenses.

Richardson earlier this year ordered an audit of the 30,000 licenses held by immigrants – a daunting task that could have been harder without Solana as a link between the two governments, said Ken Ortiz, director of the state Motor Vehicle Division.

“Consul Solana went above and beyond and worked with the Mexican government to provide us Web access to do the inquiries,” Ortiz said.

Other agencies like the state’s Homeland Security Office also depend on Solana, not on a daily basis, but as a connection to have just in case.

Homeland Security Adviser Tim Manning said that should any kind of serious international incident occur at the border, he’d know whose number to dial.

“If we ever were to get into a situation where we needed to work with the Mexican government on something, he’d be our first call,” Manning said.

But Solana doesn’t worry about the worst that could happen at the border or anywhere else.

He tries to look for the good in the bad, like an accident in Santa Fe in February that left four Mexican nationals dead and eight injured after the sport utility vehicle they were riding in flipped.

“I remember the case; I remember the people that died. It was sad at the time, but it was something good that we helped the (dead) people from the accident to go back to Mexico,” he said.

Along with the grim moments, Solana’s job also includes work on subjects including international trade promotion.

When Solana started six years ago, New Mexico did $120 million in trade with Mexico, he said.

Now, the figure is more like $600 million.

Still, Solana says, work looms.

“I’m sure more can be done. I’m sure we’re going to be able to do more.”

Published Dec. 16, 2006.

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To the people Albuquerque’s Brother Thomas helps, he’s a hero

To the people Albuquerque’s Brother Thomas helps, he’s a hero

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

The Christmas cards taped onto Brother Thomas Reis’ living room television tell it all.

There are Thank You’s, and God Bless You’s and Peace Be With You’s. There are so many that it’s hard to see what’s actually on the screen.

In all, 71 are visible, from Maine and Florida and Alaska and Hawaii, with surely more tucked away in other parts of Reis’ spare one-bedroom home. Others are no doubt on their way.

“This one is from the nicest person, a real angel,” Reis says.

His first sentence on a recent afternoon is the type of phrase he repeats over the hours.

“Why don’t you write about Ida instead of me?” he asks.

“Why don’t you call up Cheryl? She’s helped a lot of people. I’ll give you her phone number.”

Brother Thomas makes these inquiries even though a reporter is sitting in his Downtown apartment specifically to talk about him and his work. He has to be steered back on topic several times.

That’s because pointing to others is what he does.

But those he’s pointing at – the people in Albuquerque who know him and his charity and his influence – say Brother Thomas is a man an entire city should be following.

“He has the patience that only a modern-day saint could have,” says longtime friend Richard Treynor.

“Here’s a guy who cooks 20 or 30 meals and then hands them out. But he won’t take any credit,” Treynor added.

Though Brother Thomas demurs, constantly deflecting attention to others, he is a hero, the real thing, in Albuquerque’s low-income, elderly and religious communities.

He is, they say, a man who has dedicated his life and belongings to helping those who otherwise might not have a chance – or a champion.

They credit him with helping get the Barrett House up and running.

And keeping residents at St. Mary Rest Home, where he once worked, comfortable.

And making the other 31 elderly and low-income citizens feel welcome at the Hibernian House, where he lives.

And getting food to – and cooking for – thousands at the Good Shepherd Center and other centers around the city.

“He doesn’t like a lot of fanfare,” says Good Shepherd Brother Charles Schreiner. “He’ll pull in with a whole station wagon full of food. He doesn’t expect receipts or publicity or anything.”

With climbing food costs this year, places like the Good Shepherd are struggling to keep the hungry full, Schreiner says.

“Because of people like him, we can continue to help people. Otherwise, we’d really have to struggle,” Schreiner added.

The sight of Brother Thomas and his sun-battered, subcompact station wagon full of food is a common one in places where hunger is a constant shadow and help a rare beam of sunlight.

Acquaintances and friends repeat tales of Brother Thomas pulling up to a homeless shelter, a rest home, wherever, with just the things people need.

The other thing they say is this:

You can’t say no to Brother Thomas.

“If somebody needs something, he can get on the phone and talk anybody into anything,” says Patrick Newell, the outgoing director of St. Mary Rest Home.

Newell recalls the time a resident at the home couldn’t afford some badly needed dental care. Within days, a dentist was volunteering his time, Newell says.

When working the phones doesn’t do the trick, Brother Thomas goes in person to grocery stores to pick up food that he redistributes to shelters.

Larry Vehar, an Albertsons store manager, says Brother Thomas doesn’t have to work much to get others to give.

“He doesn’t have to try very hard,” Vehar says. “His work is a good cause and we don’t mind helping.”

Vehar says he’s seen others inspired by Brother Thomas during his trips to the store.

“I’ve seen people pull money out of their pockets,” he says.

Just as no one seems to be able to say no to Brother Thomas or his Irish eyes and hopeful smile, he, in turn, wouldn’t dream of turning anyone down.

Isabel Quillin, who has known and worked with Brother Thomas for 30 years, says she’s only gotten angry with him once.

“He took back a guy who was stealing from him,” she says. “I was mad for two weeks.”

Unfortunately, Brother Thomas is slowing down. At age 72, he does his work with the help of 14 medicines for his ailing lungs, a fragile kidney, shot bronchial tubes, plus a tumor that has crunched his spine.

But slowing down is far from stopping.

Brother Thomas still starts his days with the early Mass at Immaculate Conception Church. The service is tantamount to his breakfast – a chance to replenish his soul before a day of hard work, harder stories and little relief.

“I’m there before 7. I make my holy hour, my rosary, my stations of the cross, my spiritual account,” Brother Thomas says of his devotional at Immaculate Conception. “That’s my bank. God, I need that so I can make it through the day.”

If that doesn’t do it, Brother Thomas knows he’s got one last stash of peace – and peace of mind.

In his bedroom closet, next to the clothes that Quillin buys for him at second-hand stores, are pallets of beans, soup, canned chili.

It’s not for him. It’s for someone else – just in case he runs into someone who needs help.

That kind of preparation is something he’s been doing in Albuquerque since the mid-1950s, when he first arrived – seven years before Thomas Reis actually became Brother Thomas.

He rode the train into town, armed with a love of cooking, opera, classical music. His previous stops were varied – rural Oregon and Houston and Philadelphia and New Orleans. He says he was born in 1935 on a boat between Ireland and the United States, before his family’s name was changed from Rice to Reis.

“Don’t put those silly little details in the paper,” he pleads.

He came here to work with someone he had been writing to: Brother Mathias Barrett, a man he credits as a major inspiration in his life.

Barrett was an Irish priest who founded the Congregation of the Little Brothers of the Good Shepherd in Albuquerque in the 1950s. The center is known as one of the first to concentrate on helping the city’s homeless.

Brother Thomas could relate to the homeless, in part because he left home when he was 14. He’d wanted to see a Benedictine monastery, he says.

“You’re not going to put that in there, are you?”

He smiles.

He says he was one of six brothers and sisters, though Brother Thomas’ family is now in the Midwest. He has no children.

As he worked, the years flew by. One success story begat another, which begat a connection, which helped someone else.

He is flipping through a book of photos inside the community room at the Hibernian House – Thanksgiving dinners and St. Patrick’s Days, Christmases past.

He smiles again, and tries a sigh, which turns into a cough, fueled by pneumonia and bronchitis.

“She’s a gem, that doctor I’ve got,” he says.

Though he has a vast network of friends who are virtually family, Brother Thomas has a true love.

She’s 5 inches tall, with whiskery tan-and-white hair, four legs and a love for Brother Thomas that won’t quit.

She’s Baby, his dog, another of his “angels.” The one who sleeps right next to him, follows at his heels as he pulls his oxygen tank.

Vehar, who says Brother Thomas has given away the gifts he’s given him over the years, has only seen Brother Thomas keep one: a chew toy and a sweater for Baby.

“Everything else, flowers, I don’t care what we’ve given over the years . . . he always finds somebody that’s more needy,” Vehar says.

Brother Thomas says he has never thought of doing anything else with his life.

“You have to give in order to receive,” he says by way of explanation. “If you put money into the bank, you get interest.

“You put no money in, you get nothing. So what you put into the almighty God, when those days come when it’s so hard, (and you’re wondering) ‘Where’s my next meal coming from?’ . . . there’s where the almighty God gives you that interest, there’s that faith you have to have.”

Apart from God, Brother Thomas’ inspiration comes from those who served before him – those other people he keeps pointing at, giving the credit to.

“Everyone I know, who I’ve read the lives of, St. Teresa of Avila, St. Therese of the Little Flower, St. Catherine, Mother Teresa, Brother Mathias, all them people suffered,” Brother Thomas says. “But He never gives you no more than you can take.”

Published Dec. 25, 2007.

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Woman watches New Mexico grow from window of small-town store

Woman watches New Mexico grow from window of small-town store

Kate Nash | The New Mexican

PEÑASCO — When she first moved to this mountain enclave in 1946, Patty Sahd would look out the front window of her family’s store and see women in black shawls walking to church on dirt roads.

In later years, she saw families in wagons and then, gradually, the first motorized cars. Men in pickups came over gravel roads, and then women drove up in sedans.

Later still, after the roads were paved, Sahd saw the convoys of hippies and the occasional mobile home being pulled slowly all the way up to this high-altitude town.

Now 97, Sahd is among the New Mexicans who have lived almost as long as New Mexico has been a state. On Sunday, New Mexico begins its centennial year, marking in particular Jan. 6, 1912, as the day the 47th state joined the union.

Recently, Sahd and three other New Mexicans whose lives span most of the statehood period talked to The New Mexican and reflected on their small but significant slices of state history.

Born before women won the right to vote, Sahd has lived to see New Mexico elect Susana Martinez as its first female governor. Statehood-era families saw few cars on the narrow dirt roads of the time, but by now, people such as Sahd have witnessed the construction of four-lane freeways and public transit systems designed to reduce the ever-growing traffic on the those roads.

When Sahd was growing up in rural Santa Fe County south of Santa Fe, it was hard for children to get to school, and today it is easy to go to college. On any given day, less than half of New Mexico’s school-age youngsters would be in school. Today, in urban-oriented New Mexico, even higher education is all around — 17 public colleges and universities serve 80,000 students.

Sahd, a kindly grandma to five and mother to two boys, had the opportunity to watch from a small-town perspective as the state developed. Her town, Peñasco, which grew and changed after World War II, has settled into its place as a quiet Taos County community of about 2,000 people clustered in the rural area northeast of Española.

Girl from Santa Fe

Patty and Pete Sahd arrived in Peñasco in 1946, married and ready to buy a little store and earn a living.

For both, it was close to where they grew up; she south of Santa Fe and he in Cerrillos, after his family emigrated from Lebanon when he was a small boy.

The couple’s paths would cross ways in the teaching field; he worked in Golden and then Stanley, she in Cerrillos and then Stanley, where they fell in love.

Pete Sahd graduated from St. Michael’s High School in 1929. He went on to The University of New Mexico, where he played football and basketball and ran track.

While Patty taught grade school, Pete taught English and coached athletics. Among Pete Sahd’s students was Bruce King, who the couple would later see as he campaigned for governor in the north.

Later, the pair moved to Florida, where Pete Sahd served in the Navy.

After World War II ended, Sahd, who worked in radar, was ready for something else, something less secretive. Buying the Peñasco store seemed perfect.

After leaving Florida, they temporarily lived in Taos before the move to Peñasco. After 44 active years in the village, Pete Sahd died in 1990 at age 78.

During their travels, the Sahds drove an early ’40s Chevrolet coup, considered a luxury at the time.

But even with a nice vehicle, the trip was tough.

“The roads were terrible,” Patty Sahd said. “Not a little terrible — terrible terrible.”

With time, though, the main road through town started to get better. Slowly.

Before Sahd’s eyes, it went from a muddy strip to a paved state road, part of the roughly 4,000 miles in New Mexico that were asphalt at the time.

The paths to nearby Española and Taos also would improve, as the years went on and as the town grew.

Raising sons, keeping shop

The Sahds’ sons, Randy and Ted, were part of that growth.

Randy was born in nearby Taos; his brother had been born in Albuquerque.

Both went to the local public school, which was run by nuns.

Once the boys were juniors in high school, the Sahds sent them to the New Mexico Military Institute.

Later, Ted went on to the Air Force Academy, and Randy went to UNM, where he studied business. After graduation, he moved back to Peñasco.

After a long career in the military, including as a pilot and trainer, Ted retired and lives in Albuquerque. But he never stopped longing for the tiny town where he grew up.

In a recent interview, he readily recounted his times roaming miles from home without parental supervision.

“It was a safe place. It was a place where my parents and all my friends’ parents allowed us to roam at will. We’d go two and three or four miles away,” he said.

Now 70, Ted Sahd recalled being interested early on in the horses tied to the hitching post in front of his family’s store.

His contact with horses blossomed into a love for the big animals and for the family’s ranch, in part because the bike and roller skates with which he tried to travel around Peñasco didn’t do so well on dirt roads.

Participatory road paving

Ted Sahd, a pilot who has master’s degrees in engineering and political science, also recalled being fascinated with the men who came to pave the road in the early 1950s.

The roadwork was a blend of ingenuity and politics: It took both the manual labor and some lobbying by the locals before the project would be completed.

“If you wanted a road, you had to put up a bond, and to put up a bond, you needed permission from the [local] legislator and the governor. You had to go down and lobby,” he said in a recent interview.

While he, like many who grew up in this town, left Peñasco for other places, Patty Sahd never wanted to go once she had settled in.

As those wheels of the new times brought novelties her way, Sahd saw just enough of the outside world to know that she was where she wanted to be.

“Anybody that grows up in these two-bit towns like Peñasco really likes the town, and you want to go back to it,” she said.

War times

As the country entered the early ’50s and the Korean War, many families in the area played a role in the war effort, particularly by sending their men abroad.

The Sahds played a role during war times, too, helping relay the sad news of those who had died, as the phone in their store was one of the few in town.

“[The military] was sending [the dead] people back,” Sahd said. “We had to tell people who had the misfortune of waiting for people to be brought back.”

The Sahds had also felt the sting of world war; Patty’s brother Myron died in Japan after the Bataan Death March from an infection that wasn’t properly treated, about a month before he was due home.

Later, as the country moved to combat in Vietnam, Patty Sahd lived the life many mothers of sons in war did: one of waiting anxiously for news of her baby every day he was gone.

Ted flew frequently in and out of Vietnam, and he made it home safe, unlike more than 400 New Mexicans who didn’t return from that war.

As she worked for the family business, Patty Sahd worried.

It was all she could do.

“We just went day by day and hoped everything was going to be all right. There was really nothing you could do about it.”

People in town weren’t part of nationwide anti-war protests. They didn’t gather around to reject the country’s involvement, she said in November.

“They were just kind of swallowing what was happening to them,” she said.

With Ted back on U.S. soil, Patty Sahd felt good about the times. It was calm in her quiet town.

The civil rights movement was beginning, but it seemed a world away from the store, the gardens, the things that needed tending to in this modest village where people generally got along.

Second-generation shopkeeper

Soon, Randy Sahd would return from UNM and take over the store, where he works today.

He’s also the Peñasco volunteer fire chief.

The scene at the store is a real-life drama played in real time. On a recent day, Randy Sahd gets a call about a chimney fire and dashes out the door, leaving his mother to look over the few customers who wander in.

The customers buy a few things, but not big ones. The purchases pale in comparison to the big orders the Sahds used to handle.

One buyer needs an electrical box that costs less than $3, another a copy of the Rio Grande Sun.

From her perch at the entrance of the store, Patty Sahd minds the cash register when it’s busy and looks out the window when it’s not.

The store around her is almost a shrine to the past, with a beauty section that has a dated, dusty Health and Beauty sign.

There’s candy for less than a dollar and hair products in dated boxes, seemingly from the ’80s or before.

It’s quiet, except for the whoosh of wheels from the occasional car driving by the Sahds’ front windows.

The heaters hanging from the ceiling no longer work, victims of a broken part that’s no longer made. Sahd huddles into several layers of fleece, as she is by now used to the cold at these altitudes.

In between customers, she has time to recall how the business used to be.

Back then, people ordered sacks of flour and sugar in 25- and 50-pound bags.

Back then, Sahd and her husband would let people into the store after hours, for they had traveled mightily to get there.

Back then, a small business could afford to sell groceries and not worry about the competition undercutting their prices.

Back then, overalls and socks and underwear sold well, keeping the Sahds in business.

Back then.

As Sahd thinks about yesteryears, her early time in Peñasco seems like another age, she said.

“It just seems like two eras,” she said.

“It’s just like those were old times and these are new times and whatever happened in between … I was so busy I didn’t notice.”

Published Jan. 1, 2012.

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Kewa Pueblo aims to take once iconic trading post from ruins to revitalized

With help from $1 million grant, Kewa Pueblo looks to turn iconic landmark into economic boon

Kate Nash | The New Mexican

KEWA PUEBLO — Ray Tafoya’s mind races with all kinds of ideas about how his pueblo can turn an old trading post into the cornerstone of a redevelopment that could bring jobs, business and tourists to this enclave west of Interstate 25.

As he drives from the center of the village here north toward the burned-out 1920s adobe building that will be rebuilt with a $1 million federal grant, he rattles them off.

Horseback tours. Guided hiking and fishing in the Rio Galisteo. A traditional restaurant. Tours of the homes or studios of the pueblo’s artists.

All he needs is money, time, some planning and, of course tourists.

No sooner does he stop his car in front of the ruins of the trading post than two arrive.

The couple, Alan and Bonnie Lurie, are on vacation from New Jersey and a little lost. They are looking for a place to buy jewelry.

These visitors are months too early to buy any handicrafts at this location, but Tafoya chats them up about the pueblo’s plans.

“That sounds like a good idea,” Alan Lurie said. The couple drives back toward the village, in hopes of finding a roadside vendor or home-based jewelry shop.

The federal government also liked the trading post idea and last month decided to give Kewa, formerly known as Santo Domingo, funds to rebuild it.

The grant from the Economic Development Administration means a lot in this dusty and largely unpaved village of about 5,000.

It means economic development, which really means hope in a place where the median household income is roughly $33,000.

Rebuilding the post is probably at least a year away, as community members meet to try and decide what they want to do with the space, and how they want it to look.

That challenge is a tough one, because many history buffs recognize the post as an icon. Travelers on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway stopped in after a small railroad town grew up in 1880 with the arrival of the tracks. The original trading post opened in 1881 and was replaced in 1922.

According to a column in The New Mexican by historian Marc Simmons, “after World War II the trading post began catering more to tourists who were looking for reminders of the Old West. One prominent visitor who got off the train for a quick tour Dec. 7, 1962, was President John F. Kennedy.”

The trading post closed in 1995. In 2001, fire ruined the building, and like the freeway six miles to the east, time zipped by before plans to rebuild surfaced.

Tafoya, the administrator of tribal programs, said the out-of-the-way community needs to think beyond just a new trading post to attract new visitors.

That’s where his tour idea comes in. He pictures people making a whole day out of their time at the pueblo, enjoying a mix of the outdoors and the Native culture.

“Ultimately we want to make this a tourist stop again,” he said. “It’s not just arts and crafts. There’s more to do.”

Visions of a transformation

As a tribal planner, Kenneth Pin dreams big, too.

Standing in front of the former trading post, just feet from the pueblo’s Rail Runner Express passenger-train stop, Pin has the Jemez Mountains over his shoulder and the grassy, plained outskirts of the pueblo in front of him.

He describes what he envisions the area will look like in a year or two.

The trading post will be bustling, with artisans selling pottery, jewelry, weavings and more. Chefs in the restaurant will be cooking up traditional foods including red chile stew, green chile laden dishes, baked bread. Tourists will deboard the Rail Runner and walk over.

But first things are first in this outpost — a wastewater system.

“I see a bathroom,” he says, half laughing.

Those are the types of things the community here needs to think about as it prepares for such a project. Officials are also thinking about road improvements to handle the increased traffic, and maybe a sidewalk or a walking path for the area.

Nearby, Pin envisions that a former manufactured housing construction site can be turned into something new as well. Maybe a place where local potters can share a kiln. Or do soldering that they can’t do at home. Maybe a center for green manufacturing of some kind. Located right on a rail spur, the area easily could receive heavy goods as well.

Those train tracks, in fact, are a key part of the plan. The pueblo is banking in large part on train service to bring visitors.

“We’re using a modern twist on an old idea,” Tafoya said.

A shop just down the street

Mary Louise Tafoya has had her jewelry displayed in museums from Phoenix to Indianapolis to the Smithsonian.

She sells her necklaces, pendants and pins — made from corral, turquoise, serpentine and other stones — at shows including the annual Santa Fe Indian Market.

She’d like to be able to sell more of her work just miles from home as well — a real possibility with the plans for the trading post.

Tafoya said the project could significantly help local artists, some of whom try to make a living selling their artwork at the pueblo’s gas station next to the freeway, or under the portal at the Palace of the Governors on the Santa Fe Plaza.

The 52-year-old, who learned jewelry making from her parents, said the trading post brings memories of when her dad would take her there.

“I saw the two gas pumps in front and those were the coolest things,” she said, smiling shyly while sitting at her kitchen table. “It was a big thing to see.”

Published July 30, 2010.

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Back on Course

Five years after the horrific Cerro Grande fire, the people of Los Alamos, and some of their surroundings, have slowly returned to life

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

LOS ALAMOS – Less than a week after a runaway forest fire shredded their hilltop home, Sue and Stan Bodenstein stood in an Albuquerque Wal-Mart parking lot with a list of things they would need to start restocking their lives.

“I turned to Stan and hugged him and said, ‘After 32 years of marriage, we’re starting from scratch,’ because the first thing on the list was underwear,” said Sue Bodenstein, a retired travel agent.

As the couple began to rebuild their world with material goods, they also needed a supply of intangibles, like patience and humor — qualities they would need while waiting for their house on Arizona Street to again be a home.

The Bodensteins and more than 200 other families whose lives were scorched by the Cerro Grande Fire five years ago this week were about to learn that getting back to normal involved more than merely reconstructing their physical location.

A big part of building anew after losing everything has meant reclaiming a positive attitude amid the shock.

“We’ve got a nice house now,” Stan Bodenstein said. “We had a nice house before. It wasn’t easy from there to here. But the negative things we’ve just kind of shoved off to the side.”

On May 10, 2000, the most expensive fire in the Southwest’s history roared into this town, gulped down homes, incinerated wildlife habitat and chewed holes through parts of Los Alamos County’s utilities system.

It burned almost 8,000 acres of property owned by Los Alamos National Laboratory for a time threatening the birthplace of the atomic bomb.

The Cerro Grande also ate more than 47,000 acres of ponderosa pine, aspen and oak, and it displaced hundreds of people for months.

But the unbelievably hot flames also brought together the people of Los Alamos in a way some say nothing else could have.

“We are a lot closer because of everything that happened,” Sue Bodenstein said. “Where you had superficial friendships, you’ve gotten to know people a lot better.”

Today, half a decade since New Mexico’s smallest county became the site of the state’s biggest disaster, most houses on Arizona Street once the stark epitome of what an unleashed inferno can do to serene, picturesque neighborhood have been rebuilt.

Others are in various stages of building. Modern adobe and brick mark progress along streets that are slippery with mud because underground utilities are still being fixed.

But the blackened, brittle pine trees that loom from the ridge along the street are reminders of the lessons learned.

***

Above the rebuilding, above Arizona and Yucca streets, the once-majestic slopes of Los Alamos are charred and stripped, looking like a bomb blew through instead of a fire.

That sight makes Los Alamos County’s fire chief, Douglas MacDonald, sick.

“When I look at the mountain, I see the burned hill and I get ill every day,” he said. “I look at the issues our community has suffered every day, the people leaving, the streets torn up.”

MacDonald, who oversees a department of 117 firefighters, said the Cerro Grande Fire left a mixed bag of emotions and results in its wake.

On one hand, his department was able to buy a new fleet.

“(But) I don’t think the good is even close to the bad,” he said. “I don’t think having a new house outweighs all that.”

Apart from residents who have seen their neighborhoods upended, MacDonald lamented the fact that the Los Alamos reservoir, a popular recreation area for hiking and fishing, remains closed to the public, because it is unstable.

“We lost a pristine family reservoir that doesn’t look like it’s going to open for four or five years,” he said.

As the fire subsided and residents were able to see its destruction, many lashed out at the National Park Service for allowing a controlled burn on a windy May day. They said they were frustrated by forest management policies that let the woods grow into perfect fuel for the fire. To this day, many say it was clear the forests were too thick; that they would burn; that no one did anything about it.

Interior Secretary Bruce Babbitt visited Santa Fe and accepted government responsibility for the fire. And there has been a cost: The Federal Emergency Management Agency has paid more than $546 million in claims to individuals, businesses and government agencies through the end of April. Four claim cases are pending, said FEMA spokesman David Passey.

FEMA spent $23 million on emergency services, replacing infrastructure and putting residents up in temporary housing. Federal officials reconsidered the Wildland Fire Management Policy and urged residents to put a “defensible space” between their new homes and the forest, an area called the “urban-wildland interface.”

The Bodensteins, however, were familiar with those terms and had a xeriscaped lawn with gravel, hoping to ward off flames. The Cerro Grande was too hot, too big, too fast.

And the town the residents Los Alamos evacuated that day was nothing like the place to which they would return.

***

Less than a mile from the Bodensteins, Dwey Molleur’s recollection of that warm spring day is quite different. The Cerro Grande, which randomly hopscotched over some houses, left only burned spots on his Woodland Road roof.

It took Molleur, a retired welder, five days to find out his simple, single-story white house was among the saved.

After the fire, he spent 10 days in Albuquerque and lost two refrigerators full of food he had filled just before relatives were set to visit.

“We just thank God every day,” he said. “We thank the firemen.”

The location of Molleur’s house, a block in from the forest instead of up against it like the homes on Arizona Street, could have meant its demise. But it also could have led to its salvation.

His house is one block closer to Los Alamos Fire Station No. 4, about a mile away.

Firefighters at the station are close enough to see from their kitchen window the same burned ridges that border Arizona Street.

Like other residents, each firefighter at the station has memories of the two weeks straight many spent taking stabs at the orange monster.

Capt. Justin Grider remembers sleeping one night on a concrete floor and using a roll of paper towels for a pillow. Another firefighter slept on the gurney of an unused ambulance. Many went without seeing their families for days, all while fighting the fire that seemed like it would never die.

All interviewed recently said they were more than glad to do it.

And the firefighters remarked how amazing it was no one died that day.

The help the firefighters provided started a loop of other assistance, with residents and people from throughout the state giving them what they could; massages, water, meals, encouragement, a place to sleep, a thank-you.

A few residents who lost their homes were angry with firefighters for not doing more. But firefighters said the majority of people gave them accolades for their efforts.

Some firefighters lamented the fact they couldn’t do more and spoke of how hard it was to stand and watch houses fall apart at the hand of the flames.

Others still marvel at the sheer size of the Cerro Grande.

“You got a career’s worth of firefighting in two weeks,” firefighter Steve Dawald said.

***

Before the Bodensteins’ lot could be built on again, the past had to be taken away.
Clearing out their old home started with days and nights of meetings with federal and county government officials, and appointments with insurance adjusters.

One of the hardest parts of losing a lifetime of memories was creating what came to be known as the Contents List, the Bodensteins said. Their insurance company needed an inventory of what the family once owned in order to calculate what would be covered and how much money they would get.

“I went around the rooms mentally and started opening drawers and looking in them,” Sue Bodenstein said. “And then it was like a weight was lifted.”

Thinking about all that had been lost also became a turning point, the pair said.

“I think it was a way of saying goodbye,” she said.

And they moved on.

Eventually, they’d have to give county officials the final OK to tear down their chimney –the only really recognizable part left of their home — and allow construction equipment to bite up what was once their foundation.

But before that, they had to sort one last time through the rubble of their memories, another part of detaching themselves from the things they and their two adult children once owned.

Stan Bodenstein, an engineer at Los Alamos National Laboratory, said he became fascinated with finding things, no matter the condition.

In many ways, seeing bits of his life for the last time was a form of closure.

“You end up having a drive to find stuff,” he said. “But once you find it, you look at it, it’s totally useless, and you can just chuck it.”

Amid the rubble, there was the family’s entire nativity set, blackened but there. A cup with what Stan Bodenstein guesses is the glass from a wine bottle melted on it. A few ounces of what once was a 10-pound bronze bell. Several pieces of pottery in good shape apparently because they had been fired by the potter. A silver Nambe serving platter, twisted into what looks like molten sea coral.

Sue’s childhood Christmas stocking was there, too, charred and torn but mostly, unbelievably, intact.

While the Cerro Grande was hot enough to lick all the color off what it didn’t destroy, one item lay there with all of its color: an angel Sue’s mom had given her years before.

The family has put some of what they salvaged on display in their living room, a testament to the fire’s power and to the past.

Although the couple cling to those reminders, Sue said she learned that life and friendship are more valuable than any one thing.

“It’s like, all of a sudden, what’s really important is brought into focus. The material stuff, it’s just stuff.”

Published May 6, 2005.

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Frontier of Grit

Frontier of Grit: No electric lines or easy water. Bad roads. County warnings. Yet about 350 families, many from Mexico, prefer this plateau of dirt to the drawbacks of Albuquerque 12 miles away. And the settlers continue to come, their mobile homes and the American Dream in tow.

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

PAJARITO MESA — Logistically, it was a fairly simple move.
Three men in a truck hauled a mobile home three miles across a latticework of rugged roads to a place called Pajarito Mesa.

But the change of address to a place without one was an event of huge proportions in the lives of Joel and Nelida Gonzalez.

Their relocation, to this remote settlement on a plateau above Albuquerque, was a dream nearly four years and two countries in the making.

By 21st-century standards, the Gonzalezes’ dwelling in the shadow of a mountainous tire pile isn’t much.

Their new home, like many on the parched land 12 miles southwest of the city, doesn’t have the basic services that most New Mexicans took for granted decades ago.

But to Nelida, Joel, Adrian, Luis, Susana and Joel Jr., getting this home felt like heaven.

“At first, it’s hard to adjust, to flipping the switch and there’s no water or electricity. But up here, we have our own place, away from the city, and much more tranquil,” said Nelida, 26.

“Up here” is an unincorporated but fast-developing area that some see as an eyesore at worst and a colonia at best. Nelida, her four children and her husband are among about 350 families who reside atop the rural highland.

The story of Pajarito Mesa is as American as it gets one of people forging a homeland out of next to nothing.

But it’s also a Mexican-American tale; about 85 percent of the inhabitants are from Mexico or are of Mexican descent, residents estimate.

Each family some flung out on the mesa’s 22,000 acres and others huddled together in clusters has a different tale of moving to the dusty tabletop of land.

Some are undocumented immigrants whose families double or triple up in tiny trailers; others are city folk who got tired of the hustle and bustle, the bullets, the traffic.

Some own their land and homes. Others rent. Some stay with friends.

Many are happy to live in a place where Downtown Albuquerque is less than a speck on the horizon.

“I’d rather live here than in the city. I think it’s a lot safer for my kids, and they have a place to play, a place to go,” said Nelida Gonzalez, who for a time tried life in Albuquerque’s South Valley.

Others live here, seemingly decades from the lifestyle many Albuquerqueans enjoy, because it’s cheap.

The residents’ choice to live away from it all leaves Bernalillo County officials with a decision of their own: whether to evict some of the mesa’s residents, who they say essentially live here illegally.

County Manager Juan Vigil said that some parts of the mesa weren’t subdivided in accordance with zoning laws although other areas, some with single homes on 20 or more acres, do follow county zoning rules.

“That’s the dilemma,” Vigil said. “By enforcing our zoning ordinance, we could evict some of the residents. But we have to consider: Is that the right thing to do?”

The county, Vigil said, has known about Pajarito Mesa for about seven years. But as the area like other places at the edges of the city and county has grown, officials say they have been forced to consider doing something now to avoid larger problems in the future.

Already the county has fired a legal warning shot.

In the past two years, officials have posted signs in English and Spanish, informing would-be residents that they must have a set of proper permits for their mobile homes before moving to the mesa.

County officials say they could evict residents and red-tag trailers that don’t have the right paperwork, but so far they have been reluctant to do so. Instead, they say, they are trying to work with residents to bring them into compliance with county regulations.

In any case, some residents say it’s doubtful those alerts have stopped many people from coming. About 40 new families moved to the mesa over the past two years, residents said.

Officials also have met with residents to address their concerns about a lack of emergency services a major problem in a place where the nearest hospital is at least 15 miles away.

Clearly, bringing this community into the modern era will involve several layers of work. But things like paved roads needed to carry the trucks that would be used to install the services likely are years away, Vigil said.

In the meantime, and with more growth possible, the county will likely become responsible for more services here at a time when it’s already a struggle to provide fire protection and flood control in more populated areas like the South Valley and East Mountains.

“It’s been very difficult,” County Attorney Tito Chavez said. “We’re trying to balance wanting well-meaning people to live in that area with what our rules are.”

In many ways, the history of the mesa settlement is as complex as the series of lomas, cerros and arroyos that carve through it. It’s a complicated set of stories, different for nearly each settler in the various development pockets along the horizon.

While government planners and lawyers fret over the area’s past and future, many residents here are concerned with today. And while some say they’re happy with life on the mesa, even without the basics, others complain that, despite owning land and paying taxes, the county has done little to help them.

The situation has created uncertainty both for residents who want services and the county, which says it can’t do much until it has a better sense of how various lawsuits concerning land development and ownership will turn out.

This month, county officials are expected to receive the results of a $100,000 study trying to determine landownership and a more precise population count.

The study, started nearly two years ago, was also to look at where easements for utilities could be made.

Residents say they keep guarded hopes that the land history will be sorted out and they will get services.

To many elsewhere, the thought of difficult-to-obtain water, no sewer, no telephone and no ambulance service would be intolerable. But to understand the patience of the settlers here is to understand where they were before.

Living outside the wired world, Nelida Gonzalez says, is still better than what her family could have eked out in her native state of Chihuahua, Mexico.

“I don’t think we could have owned a home there,” she said in Spanish, looking out one of her two back windows at the arid terrain.

“It’s similar to Mexico. But we live better than that, especially with the money Joel can make.”

Joel, a meatcutter in the South Valley, earns $1,000 a month. Much of what isn’t spent on food for the six family members goes to payments on their $4,000, three-bedroom, brown and white mobile home.

It also goes to make their portion of the $18,000 land payment they split with other members of their family, who occupy two other trailers on the shared 2 1/2 acres.

Nelida works at home, spending nearly all of her time taking care of her four children. Or her sister’s three children. Or her neighbors’ children. Or all of them.

For the Gonzalezes, water comes from a well at the top of the mesa, dug less than a year ago.

Some of their neighbors in the area buy water in the city and truck it up the hill in buckets, tanks, whatever they can find.

While Joel works to keep his family’s generator full of gas to create power in their home, other homes run on solar energy.

For some, an outhouse is the bathroom. The Gonzalezes have their own septic tank.
Some residents use and reuse water, maybe at first to wash hands or clothes, and then to water plants.

It’s a simple life, although simple isn’t easy.

The Gonzalezes at least choose to see it as an adventure.

To get to this point, the Gonzalezes left their native Mexico in 1998 with a walk across the El Paso-Juarez border 260 miles to the south.

They had visas then, which have since expired.

“At first I didn’t want to go,” Nelida said of the mesa, a place her family had heard about from friends. “I thought, that’s not a life for kids.”

But after initially locating on the mesa and spending time with other families, she realized it could work.
“It seemed complicated,” she said. “But you get used to it. You figure out how it works.”

Making it work means sharing space with rattlesnakes and wild dog packs. Living among teens who drive up at night, looking for a remote place to party. Living among intermittent piles of trash, stacked tires, burnt cars and shot-out washing machines along the sagebrush. With coyotes and large beetles.
With little more than cracked flyswatters to get at the swarms of flies.

With neighbors who stop by to chat, for lack of much other entertainment.

Without a doctor.

Which was hard for Nelida Gonzalez when she became pregnant with her third child nearly two years ago.

For a time, the Gonzalezes decided to move out of the home they were sharing with another family on the mesa and into a South Valley apartment.

There they stayed until Luis, now 1 1/2 years old, and then Adrian, now 5 months, were born. But life in the valley although close to medical help and a more modern lifestyle wasn’t for them, Nelida said.

“Down there, he ran into traffic and almost got run over three times,” she said of 2 1/2-year-old Joel Jr.
“Then this one,” she said, pointing at her 8-year old daughter, Susana, “started talking about bank robberies, as if they were cool.
“I decided we needed to move back.”

So they returned to Pajarito Mesa with enough to make the first payment on a mobile home of their own.

That was just more than a month ago.

In a way, they are starting a different life, like many on the mesa. Again.

But this time, Nelida Gonzalez says, there is a difference.

“I don’t think,” she said, smiling and pulling back her long black hair, “we’re going back down there.”

Published Sept. 6, 2001

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Abundant Valley

Valle Vidal is a natural wonder and thriving ecosystem – and it sits precariously atop valuable methane.

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

INSIDE THE CARSON NATIONAL FOREST – Oscar Simpson scrabbles up a sandstone wall 1,000 feet above the forest floor and rests at the top, looking.

Below him, nearly 40,000 acres of the Valle Vidal stretch out with mint and olive greens, slivers of rusty reds and cornstalk yellows, dots of chocolatey browns.

It’s photogenic terrain superior to what any landscape painter could depict, home to thousands of Rocky Mountain elk, Rio Grande cutthroat trout and microscopic fairy shrimp.

Simpson, president of the New Mexico Wildlife Federation, takes a breath, looking across the slice of northern New Mexico framed by some of the state’s highest peaks.

To him, the eastern section of the 101,000 acres of the Carson known as the Valle Vidal Unit is a treasure that provides once-in-a-lifetime elk hunts, fishing, camping and horseback riding.

Others see it as a potential site for coal bed methane drilling.

“There are some places that just shouldn’t be destroyed,” said Simpson, also a spokesman for the Coalition for the Valle Vidal, a group working to stop a 2002 request to the U.S. Forest Service by the El Paso Corp. to consider the area for drilling.

“That’s all we’re asking, is to protect this one little area. The rest of it is open (to energy development),” he says of the Raton Basin, of which the Valle Vidal is a tiny part.

El Paso Corp. spokesman Joe Hollier says the 40,000 acres can be drilled in a way that could fit into the environment. He points to the company’s drilling on Ted Turner’s 500,000-acre Vermejo Ranch, which abuts the Valle Vidal.

“We feel that’s a prime way to do it correctly,” he said. The wildlife has “adapted to the facility very well.”

There, 621 drill pads are spaced every 160 acres, and the surrounding landscape is used to minimize sound and hide the wells, Hollier said. Some of the equipment is painted green.

It’s up to the Forest Service to decide whether to open the area to drilling. If it gives approval, the service would regulate how many and how far apart the drill pads would be on the Valle Vidal.

The agency would also decide the pace of drilling, Hollier said, so it’s hard to know how much coal could be extracted at a time.

Simpson, who used to work for the state regulating the oil and gas industry, said the acreage in dispute would yield between 11 and 36 hours of national energy consumption over 20 years.

And, he said, there’s no way to make drilling equipment pretty.

“I don’t care if you hide it behind a tree or not, it still disrupts wildlife. It turns it into an industrial zone. That’s all there is to it,” he said.

U.S. Rep. Tom Udall, a Democrat from Santa Fe, has introduced a measure that would permanently prevent drilling in the valle. A subcommittee of the House Committee on Resources is expected hold a hearing on the bill Thursday.

“This is a magnificent area, which deserves protection,” he said.

Udall said he started thinking about his bill after taking a tour of the area with Forest Service officials. The agency doesn’t have the authority to withdraw land from future exploration, which is what his measure would do.

U.S. Sen. Jeff Bingaman, a Silver City Democrat, also has a measure pending before the Energy and Natural Resources Committee in the Senate. It would turn the area into a national preserve and prevent drilling. A hearing hasn’t been scheduled on that bill.

But Bob Gallagher, president of the New Mexico Oil and Gas Association, said it’s premature to consider any such measures.

“The Forest Service should make a decision first as to what would be allowed and where,” he said. “Then, if politicians want to get on the bandwagon, that’s fine.”

Gov. Bill Richardson, a first-term Democrat and former U.S. energy secretary, is pushing a plan that would prohibit degrading the area’s lakes and streams by designating them as outstanding natural resources.

U.S. Rep. Heather Wilson, an Albuquerque Republican, is New Mexico’s only GOP lawmaker to come out against drilling the area using current coal bed methane technology.

Simpson, who hunts elk and deer, said his coalition, which includes 800 businesses and groups, is focused on the measures before Congress, because there’s nothing else that could stop energy exploration.

It can take months, if not years, to get a measure through Capitol Hill, he said.

“An act of Congress is the only thing that would protect it permanently,” Simpson said, standing on a cushy bed of pine needles nearly 2,000 miles from D.C.

The needles are where some of the 2,500 elk who live here bed down at night, cuddling against the cold.

The Valle Vidal, or Valley of Abundant Life, is home to the most concentrated elk herd in the state. Wild turkeys wander, and bouquets of wildflowers thrive.

People come by the thousands from across the nation to camp, hike, hunt, fish, take photos and just get away. Visitors include the Boy Scouts, whose Philmont Scout Ranch is nearby.

About 6,000 individuals have joined the coalition in hopes of persuading the federal government to leave the area alone.

The group includes hunters, ranchers, fishers, area business owners and horseback riders.

“It’s not just an isolated group of environmentalists. It’s a broad-based coalition,” Udall said.

About 50,000 people visit the area each year, according to the state Game and Fish Department. Simpson fears those visitors, who bring between $3 million and $5 million a year to primarily Colfax and Taos counties, won’t show up if there is drilling.

The elk that attract so many won’t stick around, either, he said.

“If you want to have a wildlife area and energy exploration, they aren’t compatible,” he said.

Gallagher disagrees.

“They can coexist easily with energy production,” he said.

Near the base of Big Costilla Peak, a 12,739-foot-tall rock pushed up out of the earth, Susan Clagett and Lisa Mandeville walk along the Rio Costilla Creek with their chow mix, Bear.

“We come here because there’s no people, no traffic,” Mandeville said. “How many other places can you come to like this?”

The pair, who work at a souvenir shop in Red River, hike or fish in the valle a few times a week. They don’t want drilling there.

When tourists ask them for advice on local places to visit, they sometimes hesitate to reveal the existence of a gigantic, gorgeous forest nearby.

“We’ve seen bear and their cubs, bald eagles and elk like you wouldn’t believe. . . . You don’t want to tell anybody about it,” Clagett said.

If the Forest Service does give the go-ahead for leases to drill, they would visit less often.

“This is a love affair,” Clagett said. “How did the oil and gas people find this place?”

Published Oct. 24, 2005.

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One border ranch’s battles

One border ranch’s battles

By Kate Nash
Tribune Reporter

LUNA COUNTY, NEW MEXICO – The dogs at the Johnson ranch bark nearly all night, warning residents of the immigrants who are crossing this remote ranch land at the southern edge of New Mexico.

They bark at the people they can’t see, hundreds at a time, stealing into the night and into the United States.

From his front porch, after the sun has set, cattle rancher Joe Johnson can hear immigrants converse as they stream in from Mexico.

He can’t see them, but when the sun rises, he’ll know the damage they’ve done.

As Johnson wakes up, often cringing at the thought of the work he’ll have to do to fix his cattle fence or his water lines, his dogs head to sleep for the day.

That’s not the only thing that’s out of sync with the rest of the world down here.

Down here, Cadillacs and minivans are abandoned when they get stuck in the Johnsons’ sand. Piles of backpacks, clothes, water bottles and trash line the arroyos. And residents seethe, living in the wake of what thousands of immigrants a year leave behind.

While Border Patrol officials aren’t sure of the exact increase of immigrants crossing into the United States in the area around Deming, Johnson estimates traffic has increased 500 percent this year over last.

The debate over how to handle the situation has been ratcheted up, as well, with Gov. Bill Richardson last week declaring a state of emergency in four southern New Mexico counties and with civilian members of the Minuteman Project set to monitor the border this fall.

“We are being invaded by another country,” says Johnson, whose family started living off the land in Luna County in 1918.

`An emergency-type situation’

Johnson, a looming 42-year-old with a sun-battered cowboy hat, can’t recall the first time he realized immigrants were using his ranch as a gateway to the United States. Mexicans have been crossing for pretty much as long as he can remember.

With the recent increase, response times from law enforcement have declined, he said.

The Johnsons say they put in almost daily calls to the Border Patrol’s El Paso Sector, which employs 1,229 agents and includes two western Texas counties plus all of New Mexico. Law enforcement also includes a handful of State Police officers and Luna County sheriff’s deputies. They used to respond within minutes but now take an hour or more, Johnson said.

“It’s strictly because they are overwhelmed,” he said.

Johnson is too. Tired, inundated and fed up.

He recently lost 155,000 gallons of water from a storage tank when he says immigrants broke one of his water lines in search of something to soothe their thirst.

Immigrants, who have carved foot paths as well as dirt roads across Johnson’s property, break holes in his fence, which for eight miles is the U.S.-Mexico border.

That fence keeps his cattle in and Mexican cattle out – a boundary that’s crucial when it comes to controlling livestock diseases.

“It could be horrendous for the industry. If foot-and-mouth came across, it could be horrible,” Johnson said.

While Johnson’s cattle have plenty of space to roam in the Chihuahuan desert, that same vastness causes him some consternation.

The Border Patrol has told the Johnsons to avoid some pockets of their 102,000-acre property, especially at night.

“There are areas where if you have work to do, you’d better get it done early,” said Teresa Johnson, Joe’s wife.

In this rugged space where crime seems as far away as New York or Seattle, the Johnsons could talk all day about the problems they’ve had with immigrants.

Joe Johnson said he and his brother were held at gunpoint once, by immigrants who then stole their pickup. Late last month, Johnson said, seven people knocked on the door of his brother house, saying other immigrants were shooting at them and had kidnapped three women who were traveling with them. The women were released a short time later, Johnson said.

The Johnsons have become increasingly vocal about their situation. They’ve talked to their state representatives, to their U.S. representatives, to anyone who will listen, he said.

“We’ve done everything but get down on our knees begging,” he said.

Part of a homeland security bill recently approved by the Senate contains money for 1,000 new Border Patrol agents nationwide. It also would appropriate about $256 million for the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center in Artesia. Both Sen. Pete Domenici, an Albuquerque Republican, and Sen. Jeff Bingaman, a Silver City Democrat, have praised the bill and the money it will bring to the state if approved by the House in its current form and signed by President Bush.

Still, residents doubt any solution will be quick.

“If it takes two years to get control, I can’t imagine. I couldn’t imagine the way it is today,” Johnson said.

Knowing that more agents might be heading to the border doesn’t put Johnson at ease. Agents are in training for 19 weeks before they are assigned to their posts.

“I think it’s an emergency-type situation. We need someone here now. We can’t wait. They need to deploy more agents or the military or National Guard. Somebody.”

Sitting at their kitchen table, Teresa Johnson agrees.

“We have so many people over there fighting (in Iraq), and maybe I’m selfish, but I think we need to look out for No. 1.”

Who’ll guard the border?

An hour west of the Johnsons’ ranch, in nearby Grant County, just miles from the Continental Divide but not much else, horse trainer Robert Been is also fed up.

A member of the Rough Riders, a mounted subset of the Minuteman Project, Been says he watched St. Catherine of Sienna Catholic Church in the outpost of Hachita slowly get ruined by immigrants taking shelter.

Locals earlier this year boarded up the church because of the garbage, the rotting food and the human waste inside.

That’s just one sign that the area is changing, Been says.

“We used to never lock our doors. Now it’s like you don’t dare leave it open,” Been said.

Like the Johnsons, Been has had problems with his water.

“I have to haul my water. I don’t need 20 or 30 people taking a bath with it,” he said.

His neighbors have been robbed of food, clothes, guns and trucks, he says, and left with piles of water bottles and twisted bicycles, which immigrants ride until the tires go flat.

The bitter joke in this area, ringed by the Hatchet and the Cedar mountains, is that the 40 or 50 residents ought to start a bike shop. Or a plastic bottle recycling business.

Stationing the National Guard along the border doesn’t sound like a bad idea to Been, either. New recruits could get some experience in the harsh landscape, he said.

Richardson, however, has said he doesn’t think Guard members are needed. His emergency declaration frees money for more state and local law enforcement.

Doug Mosier, a U.S. Border Patrol public affairs officer, said the government wants its agents to do the often-dangerous work.

“We would always prefer to have trained Border Patrol agents to do that kind of work,” he said. “We understand the passion and commitment of U.S. citizens.”

Been says he’d like to see dozens more agents stationed closer to the border than N.M. 9, the southernmost paved road in Luna County.

While Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Robert Bonner recently floated the idea of a civilian group that would help the Border Patrol, Mosier said he’s not aware of any plans to do that. A Department of Homeland Security spokesman has said there are no plans to use a civilian patrol.

Been and other Minutemen say something has to be done, especially in the wake of the terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center and Pentagon.

“Bush should go explain to the victims of 9-11 why he hasn’t secured our border. If someone was trying to break into my house, the first thing I would do is close the doors,” said Been, looking almost like the Marlboro Man as he smokes and leads a horse along in the desert, which for a fleeting moment is cloudy.

Come October, Been and other members of the Minuteman Project plan to patrol the border, looking for crossers and reporting them to the Border Patrol, an undertaking similar to a recent monthlong operation in Arizona.

The group, however, has been met with some ire.

Jackie Hadzic, state director of the League of United Latin American Citizens, said her group opposes the Minutemen but supports law enforcement.

While neither group wants criminals entering the country from other places, “we don’t have enough workers,” she said. “Americans don’t take the jobs, even in cities with 30 percent unemployment.”

Many immigrants, she said, are simply looking for a better life.

“They are hardworking people,” she said. “Do you know how hard it is to be working in fields?

“They pay into Social Security, they pay taxes, they are helping us out, and we are helping them back.”

Her group, which has held anti-Minutemen protests in Las Cruces, is looking into how to express its opposition to the group this fall.

William Norris, southern coordinator for the Minutemen Civil Defense Corps of New Mexico, said members of the group are getting trained for October duty.

“Our primary concern is national security,” he said. “You don’t know who is bringing what.”

Norris said he’s particularly worried about the number of OTMs, or Other Than Mexican people, entering the United States.

“Abdul has a very similar complexion to Juan. You can’t tell them apart,” he said.

Border Patrol officials estimate that OTMs make up about 3.5 percent of immigrants apprehended in the El Paso Sector but 35 percent to 40 percent in parts of south Texas.

While the Minutemen have created a stir in Arizona and southern New Mexico cities like Las Cruces, Norris and Been say they aren’t an anti-immigration group. They say their group is active on the Mexican and Canadian borders.

But, they say, immigrants need to follow the law.

“You need to come through the gate and do it right,” Norris said.

Norris, who constructs rock walls for a living, said he’s disappointed in federal officials for not doing more to defend the border.

“They want cheap labor, and they are willing to risk terrorism to get it,” he said.

Published Aug. 20, 2005.